Artist Textiles: Picasso to Warhol 2014 exhibition

Recently we received an invitation to attend the press viewing of Artist Textiles: Picasso to Warhol, soon to open in the Fashion and Textile Museum.

The colourful exhibition showcases the history of twentieth century art through a display of two hundred rare textiles. It encompasses pieces from key art movements such as Fauvism, Cubism, Constructivism, Abstraction, Surrealism and Pop Art.

Visually enticing, each corner of the exhibition boasts a fresh feast for the eyes and with features from Sonia Delaunay, Henri Matisse, Joan Miró and Ben Nicholson as well as the namesakes Pablo Picasso and Andy Warhol, it is as appealing to an art novice as it is to the most seasoned art-lover.

From a more fashion-oriented perspective, the exhibition floor is adorned with outfits constructed from the prints on display. The strong shapes and striking prints work together to create eye-catching garments and this is very much a union that is seen on the catwalks of today.

The deeper meaning behind this exhibition is not to be overlooked. It celebrates the groundbreaking merger between the realms of art and fashion, one that we take for granted today. It represents a conscious decision to bring art to the masses, the controversy of which is perfectly summed up by Picasso’s refusal to allow fabrics featuring his prints to be used for upholstery in as late as the 1960s. The curators note: ‘Picassos may be leaned against, not sat on.’

Artists began to reconsider the differences between fine art and applied art after the war, resulting in the new movement to create ‘a masterpiece in every home’. This soon gained momentum and with the involvement of contemporary painters such as John Piper, Salvador Dalí and Saul Steinberg, prints were incorporated into soft furnishings. Eventually, these visuals were produced on commercial clothing allowing people to wear a Joan Miró dress or a Salvador Dalí tie. The movement meant that the British and American public were able to engage with modern art on a personal level.

The exhibition showcases Salvador Dalí’s dress in ‘Flower Ballet’ comprised of screen-printed rayon pebble crêpe, carefully positioned against a backdrop of his ‘Desert Rocks’ fashion textile print which was adapted for glamorous evening dresses by Hollywood designer Adrian.

As for Picasso, a section of the exhibition is dedicated to him and particularly to his unseen work. These designs were taken from a wide spectrum of his artwork and screen-printed onto a variety of materials in spectacular colourways. One furnishing textile is derived from a series of paintings that Picasso did of his ‘muse’ and second wife; another dress is covered in his ‘Notes’ print, worn by his second wife in an accompanying photograph allowing us a glimpse into his private life.

‘Simply fun’ is the phrase we would attribute to the section of ‘Pop’ textiles by Andy Warhol, later used by Stephen Bruce for a collection of dresses in the early 1960s. These textiles and garments feature graphic illustrations of a repeated food item to create a colourful, light-hearted print perfect for summer dresses. Look out for watermelon slices and ice-cream sundaes as appealing to the eye as they are to the taste buds! As Warhol was known to recycle his favourite motifs for other companies he collaborated with, his highly successful career naturally merged fine art with applied art.

Similarly, Zhandra Rhodes transcended the boundaries between fine art, applied art and design. She used an eclectic mix of sources to design a range of ‘Pop’ textiles that utilise screen-printed crêpe and complex neon patterns to create fiercely feminine prints. Her signature lipstick print is a personal favourite and one that is available to view in all its splendour at the exhibition.

The clever mix of all things art and fashion allows for entertainment alongside education. Sure to be inspirational to each visitor, Artist Textiles: Picasso to Warhol will prove to be a worthy addition to your schedule.

Rebekah Absalom

Artist Textiles: Picasso to Warhol is at the Fashion and Textile Museum from 31 January-17 May 2014