LFW S/S’15: Christopher Raeburn – Ascent

This season the womenswear collection ‘Ascent’ explores the lightness and freedom of flight, taking inspiration from the myriad of colours, shapes and textures found in the epic fields of decommissioned aircraft that pepper the arid Arizona desert. Ascent marks Ræburn’s fifth year at London Fashion Week and represents the next chapter in an ongoing evolution of femininity underpinned by function. A strong focus is placed on layering, visually striking prints, textures, and oversized but effortlessly elegant silhouettes. The ongoing commitment to ReMADe as a concept is evident in the seasonal inspiration, which highlights the beauty in the apparently obsolete; this ethos continues to guide and influence all aspects of Ræburn design, from unique fabrications to playful details and graphics, exceptional fit and considered functionality.

The remade product offering captures the changing landscapes and lighthearted freedom associated with flight. Original MIG fighter pilot suits have been combined with silk organza and re-worked into exquisite jackets, dresses and separates. The jacket features intricate lacing that is woven through the front panels and sheer organza panels at the back, creating a striking but eminently feminine stand out style for the season. The matching rucksack completes a look that defines luxury with integrity. The remade section of the collection also offers an entirely new take on the signature parachute pieces. Oversized parkas and shirts feature original seam detailing in vibrant spring- time pink, an unexpected colour and the result of Ræburn’s tireless search for original fabrics that bring a new energy and inspiration to each seasonal concept.

Prints inspired by landscape and cartography are fast becoming a defining feature of the Ræburn womenswear aesthetic. This season meteorological maps and weather patterns have been amalgamated in a soft metallic colour palette, enriched with injections of blues and pinks to create a swirling repeat that glides across the garments. The print is applied to a number of key styles and fabrications including quilted fabric used in trans-seasonal outerwear, such as bombers and hooded jackets. As always sustainability is considered in the design process with eco-PrimaLoft fill used in all quilted styles. Ascent also features a paper touch sun-bleached floral print from Japanese textile masters Komatsu, seen in both outerwear and separates; the muted greens and browns create a design that bridges military camouflage and tropical summer print. Both prints in the collection are cleverly combined with cool Wool to create hybrid hoodies and dresses as part of the ongoing partnership with The Woolmark company. 100% cool wool trousers, shorts and joggers offer a neat transition between casual and formal wear.

Ascent continues to illustrate Ræburn’s commitment to fabric innovation creating stories through texture. A light and elegant ripstop cotton in antique white appears effortlessly distressed, mimicking the beautiful erosion that can be seen in the decommissioned desert aircraft. This unique fabrication features in light summer staples, such as the loose fitted dress and jumpsuit and a new oversized bomber. Dresses and shirts made in a luxurious Italian camo cotton showcase Ræburn’s ability to play with and manipulate texture.

An oversized parka cocoons the body with feminine ease and brings an entirely new silhouette to the Ræburn brand. Another beautifully textured navy blue Italian fabric from Limonta is mixed with organza, playing with the concept of both covering and revealing the body. This unique story features exquisite navy shirtdresses and cropped evening jackets with elegant lines and clean finishes. The cover and reveal aesthetic is continued in a stand out series of sheer organza pieces with strategically placed iridescent patches. These woven patches are made from 100% recycled yarn and applied using heat transfer techniques developed in partnership with Avery Dennison RBIs.

Eminently accessible and wearable jersey joggers, sweats and T-shirts also feature the heat transfer patches, creating a graphic and bold take on sportswear classics. The accessories collection includes the iconic Ræburn rucksacks and pack away bags, available in seasonal colours and fabrications and also featuring the Avery Dennison RBIs patches. The trademark animal bags have been updated to include this season’s mascot, the desert tortoise, as well as clutches and purses in new shapes and sizes, completing a uniquely feminine spring collection.

Avery Parker

Click here to visit the Christopher Raeburn website for further information.