Andrea Incontri A/W’15: Balance collection

Proportion, harmony, balance. These are the three concepts developed through a layered story but with a unique foundation from Andrea Incontri A/W’15 collection. The designer explores the universe of femininity in its complexity and constant search for an idea of “high” beauty and in the meantime accessible. The collection for winter just tells the woman’s ability to stay in balance between things, showing each time a different face, yet never far from herself. Andrea Incontri has chosen to capture three of these faces, a three-layer reading flowing beneath the surface.

The collection is comfortable, the lines breathe and the length of the clothes do not force the body. Instead, it frees it. The collection has the same consistency when it comes to colours and materials: anthracite, grey, ivory and dark shades separated from each other but rather fused and finely moved regarding the clothes’ structure. In fact, the materials reflects for example wool Jaspé, flannel mélange, the English coast mouliné vests, or recognisable classics, which is delicate to the body, all with a tight and compact stretch.

This tradition is combined with artificial colours of nylon and the richness of a techno fur in order to create warm and reversible garments that would render functionable in their scenography. Moreover, shirts become padded as well as jackets. The female body, in its most harmonious and complex expression becomes a narrative subject and is synonymous with the balance brought by dynamics, precision, challenge, courage and the pure intention of expression, which is the basis of the project.

Accessories echo the leitmotif of the collection. The taste for the challenge, but within well-defined limits, dictated by proportion, cleanliness and harmony. The soft leather is combined with functional para rubber, and the colour combination plays an important role, including the neutral tones and the bright colours of turquoise, pink, yellow and amaranth. The colour palette is divided between the absence of colour in the androgynous world that investigates the different intensities of accented and cool grey and the rest of the world in Technicolor: turquoise, yellow, purple and pink.

Porcia Aue

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