LFW S/S’15: Barbara Casasola – restrained and demure

Corralling the temperate climes of her southern homeland, Barbara Casasola evoked a  hothouse allure through cloth and skin, mapping the revolutions of sunset to sunrise  streaked with an athletic fraicheur.  The optical, golden thread installations and detached ocean studies of Brazilian artist Ligia Pape dictate the dichotomies of texture and light throughout the collection. A refined play of spontaneous curve and line is embodied by micro plisse, doubled wave, knife, and sun-ray pleats, which each lend structure to spliced, fluid slip dresses, loose singlets and column skirts.

The sweeping curves of brasilia are omnipresent: from a draped bust in concrete-coloured mesh to the sensual reveal of transparent panelling.  Signature tailored blazers were worn sleeveless and long or etched out at the ribs to extend into soft ribbon ties, in a nod to the relaxed, pareo waistline that later appeared on a sleek  bodysuit and wrapped trousers. Technical fabrics were micro-pleated and shot through with the washed metallic lustres of old gold, pewter and bronze to fit like second skin knitwear.

In contrast, the opaque and matte qualities of viscose were rendered in a flaming sundown with a palette of dusty violet, pale tangerine, and a brilliant carmine red. Flat and block-heeled sandals grounded the silhouette with an insouciant ease. The Spring/Summer 2015 collection was shown amongst a scenography featuring the verdant  growth of hothouse palms posed against frosted fibreglass, in a series of alcoves conjuring a hidden, tropical garden.

Avery Parker

Visit the Barbara Casasola website here.