LFW S/S’15: Jay Briggs – Melusina Collection

Walking into the Jay Briggs show, we immediately felt a calming presence away from the hustle and bustle outside. The atmosphere was very still and there was something rather sinister in the way the mannequins were displayed surrounding a live model in the centre of the space.  The figures around the model were dressed in black in an array of opulent materials including lace, layered feathers and silk.  These dramatic one-piece garments and floor length dresses complimented the headpieces beautifully.

The headwear on display included a delicate beaded headpiece made up of silver and white beads intricately sewn. This piece was cleverly paired with much bolder contrasting fabrics of the dress including leather, revealing sheer mesh fabric and black sequins. Behind this was a dramatic headpiece made up of lace shaped into a crown and tall black bird’s feathers protruding upwards. The entire face of the mannequin was covered in black lace, certainly enforcing the eerie feel of the presentation.  We next came to what we felt was the most striking of the mannequins, the crow’s wings. This headpiece consisted of several sets of black and white Magpie wings carefully perched on top of a headband so as to appear to be in flight. The way the lighting was placed shone through the wings, emphasising their in-flight structure.  The mannequin had a ruffle of black feathers with white tips surrounding her black leotard, and also black feathers travelling down from the neck. Incorporated into this bodice was a beaded bustier and sleeves. Similarly to the other mannequin’s face covered in lace, this effect was created using sequins. The combination of the feathers and sequins was so effective in creating such a mysterious look as well as not being able to see the eyes of the figure.

There were two mannequins with such striking dresses that no headpieces were required.  The first to catch our eyes was an incredibly theatrical fish tail black feather dress.  There were larger feathers surrounding the neckline before smaller ones cascaded downwards towards the fish tail that had a rich sumptuous silk fabric.  The other mannequin wore a black sparkling lace long-sleeved body suit cascading over the floor of one leg, but finishing above the knee on the other.  We loved this modern twist on this garment and thought that it added even more drama to the presentation!

In the centre of the mannequins stood a live model illuminated in all white. Her white feather dress createda bird’s silhouette with a high neckline and accentuated hips.  She wore patent white leather shoes and her stature was extremely bird-like as she stood and moved her arms in a certain way.  Despite the very wide hips of the dress, there was such elegance about her, standing as an ethereal beacon of light amongst the haunting birds that were all around. Her white lace headpiece extending down to over her eyes with white feathersadded to her poised nature.  The way she moved was very gentle, and we were almost hesitant to get too close so as not to disturb her graceful presence. The show space was decorated with greenery and vegetation, almost giving the impression that we were with the birds in the forest, emphasising this ambiance was the music that had a jungle-feel to it.  There were also fine white leaves on the floor scattered around the mannequins. With such stillness and beauty, we left the presentation feeling more serene and peaceful, ready to head toSomerset House.

Sophie Halbert

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