LFW S/S’15: Mariana Jungmann’s – Yemanja

Mariana Jungmann’s designs tell a story.  Born in Brazil, as a child she would spend time playing underneath her family’s glass dining table.  Here she discovered her love of lace, lost within the unique patterns and shapes transporting her into another world.   Seeing the world from another perspective through the intricate fabric of lace has always been a key feature throughout Jungmann’s collections.

For Jungmann’s Spring/Summer 2015 show she sought inspiration from “Yemanja”, meaning the Queen of the Ocean and the patron deity of fishermen. Yemanja is seen as a Goddess with many powers, including curing infertility in women and possessing the spirit of the moonlight.  The show started with the sounds of the sea; instantly one is transported into an ethereal world listening to the waves lapping against the cliffs, feeling the strong presence of Yemanja.

As the first model made her entrance, we were instantly drawn to her glistening headpiece, perched almost like a mohican strikingly above her plaited hair. The shiny bristles appeared to look like fins or scales, as we imagined a beautiful sea creature. Models also worn beautiful body art on their faces by Face Lace, which is a non-fade, non-smudge range of ready-to-wear make-up. The garments introducing the show were very structured, with crisp menswear tailoring seen through shirts and trousers.  As the show progressed the pieces became more fluid and loose, with dresses draped over the body and silky tops and skirts on display.  The pieces included Jungmann’s signature style of Renaissance lace, demonstrated through laser cutting of soft leather as well as lace floral prints, often focused to the sleeves.

The lace elements added an intricacy to the muted hues of the clothes. The accessories on display were round sparkling glasses complimenting the shimmering headpieces and make-up.  Shell clutch bags were also on display. The show concluded with a sheerlace one piece with a slinky hood, enforcing the designer’s fascination with lace. The masculine style of high necklines, menswear tailoring and the geometric lace cut outs and prints reflected the dominant presence of Yemanja.  The softer details of the collection illustrated by colours such as sea blues and greys, as well as the gleaming makeup broughtus back to the calming oceanic atmosphere.  All in all, if we had to summarise this collection in one word, it would be enchanting.

Sophie Halbert
Photos: Marc Hayden

For more information on Mariana Jungmann, visit her website here.