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Mary Benson is a London based womenswear designer, born in Leeds who moved to London and graduated from the University of Westminster in 2014. She is renowned for her magical clothes and fantastical landscapes of print and textiles. Her collections have an ethereal quality with a myriad of printed imagery. Mary’s collections signify a return to womanliness and a re-invention of the ladylike silhouette.

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Dripping Dali-esque clocks and floating abstract hands. Bambi vomiting rabbits. Cascading gold coins spill across skirts and glistening green frogs modestly run for cover under iridescent slivers on sleeves. Shimmering faces peer out behind glistening locks of hair on jackets. Mary Bensons debut collection at Fashion East of signature glam vinyl embellishments on black denim, velvet, silk crepe and silk jersey dresses, shirts, skirts and jackets is her way of creating ‘My own surrealist world’.

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This season she adorns everything with make-believe gothic fairy tale motifs and emblems. Embroidered and twinkling couture beadwork takes on themes of broken mirrors, ravens and ‘twin heads’ delicately placed on knits, her choice of imagery rejoices in magical and fantastical vignettes and notes the passing of time revealing a fascination with the macabre.

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‘Gorgeous’ engages itself with masculine and feminine shapes but blurs the boundaries according to the wearer, from boxy shaped jackets to one shouldered super sexy and sassy hot pink silk jersey dresses. Hip skimming flared jeans teamed up with velvet halter tops held to the body via leather choker belt necklets are both wantable and wearable. The dark and the light… dynamic attention to detail is everywhere, from opulent and juicy to a notion of prim and proper. ‘A very personal collection’ Mary’s mystical trip includes ‘Jane Birkin’ inspired underwear, accessories (berets and bags) and a truly glam-tastic collaboration with shoe designer Terry De Havilland. ‘Gorgeous’ is a Mary Benson utopia with a touch of tongue in cheekiness.

Melanie Stockman

Click here to view the rest of the A/W’15 collection.