YMC ‘Traum Der Maschine’ A/W’17 Collection

True to form You Must Create and Fraser Moss continue to merge their key inspiration sources, music and art, into wearable yet directional collections. The Bauhaus movement is the main influence for A/W’17, due to its focus on form and function. Moss was drawn in by the pictorial textile art of Josef and Anni Albers.

With live music from Factory Floor, and set design inspired by Berlin in the late 1970s/early 80s, the ‘Traum der Maschine’ collection is aligned with You Must Create’s fundamental aesthetic DNA – and constantly soundtracked by post-punk and synth.

Moss combines his Bauhaus fascination with an ongoing interest in the DIY ethos and surreal cut and paste techniques of the DADA artists during the early 20th century, visible here in the commissioned collage-style prints by graphic artist and musician Julian House, exclusive to YMC men’s collection.

Unisex pieces, such as the sheepskin flight jackets, heavy loopback jersey sweaters and the ‘Made in France’ Breton tops, help create a visual coherency across men’s and womenswear, also aided by an overarching colour palette of black, grey, olive, camel… with touches of burnt orange as the defining accent colour.

Both the men’s and women’s fits are loose and comfortable, with wide-legged trousers the main bottom silhouette across the board. Fabrics to look out for include the waxed Herringbone twill, natural chambray from Cone Mills, veg-dyed Japanese nylon, Teflon-coated poplin quilt, rip-stop cotton and the tartan wool.

Key men’s pieces are as follow: the speckled wool suit, sheepskin budgie jackets, ‘Nam’ pants in a garment-dyed mixed fabric, our woollen factory coat, the fur-collared quilt liner coat and the zip shirt with all over Maze print. The womenswear boasts belted melton trouser, a fishtail parka in Japanese nylon, tailored duster coats in cashmere and a cocoon coat with Peter Pan collar in checked Italian wool.

The boiled wool in deep red tartan check is exclusive to the women’s collection, as well as the soft sand- washed cupro tie neck shirt-dress and the box pleat dress in soft nappa leather. Also note the floral pattern in mixed cotton and viscose, the chunky garter stitch smock knit and our kimono cardigan. Teddy Boy creepers and Tabi toe trainers are the standout footwear styles, and the accessories are dominated by liner quilt zip bags and maze-print backpacks in collaboration with Eastpak.

Bailey Moss